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North Luangwa National Park
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The North Luangwa National Park covers about 4636
km² of the Luangwa Valley (half the size of South Luangwa) and is one of
the most remote parks I’ve ever been to. Only a total of a few hundred
tourists visit this part of the Luangwa Valley a year, as the park’s
infrastructure isn’t comparable to the southern park. In general, the
flora and fauna of the North Park are the same as those found in South
Luangwa. Worth mentioning is the absence of giraffe and the fact that
the area teems with lions and buffalos. Given their long life span, and
slow regeneration after poaching, elephants are scarce and skittish.
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The
journey' s the reward! It’s a challenge to get to North Luangwa! Unless
you fly there in a small bush plane, allow at least 10 exhausting hours
for the 150 km between Mfuwe (South Luangwa) and Buffalo Camp, the
centre of action in North Luangwa. It’s an adventurous trip on dirt
roads, where you have to cross rivers and ditches or pass through small
fishing villages, like Zokwe or Tuluam, where “wazungu” (white people) still cause crowds of
curious locals. Some forest areas that have to be crossed are
contaminated with tsetse flies. So avoid to wear dark clothes that are
favoured by the flies.
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North Luangwa has very few
roads. The most important natural feature is the Mwaleshi River, a small
permanent river that flows even in the heat of the dry season and
attracts a lot of game. Walking is the main activity in North Luangwa.
Usually you are accompanied by an armed ZAWA (Zambia Wildlife Authority)
scout and a professional certified guide. Close encounters with buffalos
or lions take place regularly. I was somewhat yellow when it happened J
! So ensure that at least your guide knows how to handle situations like
these. Don’t rely on the ZAWA scouts. Usually they are trained for anti
poaching patrols and not for walking safaris with tourists. Our ranger
ran away (no joke …J
!). To me, North Luangwa is a must! Its charm lies in its
remoteness and its pristine beauty! |
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