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Lamu
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The
Lamu Archipelago consists of several islands lieing in the Indian Ocean
close to the Somalian border. Lamu, Pate and Manda Islands are the
biggest ones of the archipelago. Lamu Town is the core of everything the
Lamu archipelago stands for in the hearts and minds of inhabitants and
visitors alike. It’s a living throwback to the Swahili culture and as
Kenya’s oldest living town, Lamu has a rich and colorful history. The
town was one of the original string of Swahili settlements that
stretched from Somalia to Mozambique. It remained a thriving port town
through the turbulent Portuguese invasions and later the Omani
domination of the 17th century. Lamu had a slave-based economy until the
turn of the 20th century.
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Lamu
appears to be a region almost frozen in time. It’s another world and one
of the places, where I stayed much longer than planned. The physical
appearance and the character of the town have changed very little over
the centuries, although some people that visited the island a couple of
years ago, seem to recognise changes caused by increasing tourism. The
narrow, winding alleyways accommodate only pedestrian or donkey traffic.
The population of Lamu remains almost exclusively Muslim. Men still wear
full length robes known as khanzus with kofia caps while women still
cover themselves in the black wraparound cloth common in other Islamic
cultures. It’s a slow world, where especially men can be observed
hanging around doing absolutely nothing for the whole day
J
!
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The
architecture of the houses and buildings is unique. Most buildings date
back to the 18th century or before and are constructed out of local
materials including coral stones, wooden floors supported by mangrove
poles, makuti roofs, and intricately carved shutters for windows. The
most popular buildings are the Old Fort, Lamu and Swahili House
Museum. The island has 28 (!) mosques, most of them located in Lamu Town
and Shela, another ancient village that seems even more medieval than
Lamu Town. Most people come to Shela for the beach that runs for 12 km
around the headland. It can get pretty windy, but you’re guaranteed to
have the place to yourself. Shela lies half an hour from Lamu Town on
foot. |
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