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The coast

Kenya’s Indian Ocean shoreline is one of its greatest assets. White palm-fringed beaches run pretty much all the way from the Tanzanian to the Somalian border. Many all-inclusive resorts dot the coastline north and south of Mombasa, where package tourists from all over the world reside. The tourist centres around Mombasa and Diani or Malindi inspire wildly opposite reactions in people. But there are still some calmer villages with a more African atmosphere, like Watamu or Tiwi, where peace and loneliness still can be found.
 

   
   
   


But the coast has much more to offer than the beaches. In fact the real draw of the coast is the Swahili culture that permeates every aspects of life here. Mombasa is the country’s second biggest town. The most interesting part is the distinctive old town. Although there’s surely no comparison to Lamu, it has plenty of character with its narrow, winding alleyways, historic Swahili houses and the Old Fort. Apart from this Mombasa has bustling markets and a vibrant night life. Compared to Nairobi it’s a very safe city, where families walk along the streets at night, something that would be unimaginable in the capital.
 

   
   


Besides the Arabuko Forest and Shimba Hills Reserves still contain stretches of coastal rainforest (sadly I haven’t been there
L) and  ancient coral mosques can be found at Gede Ruins. Offshore the Malindi and Watamu Marine National Parks include some maginificent coarl reefs and abundant fish-life with plenty of opportunities for snorkelling and diving. Lots of people use the legendary overnight train from Nairobi to reach Mombasa. It’s a 14-hour trip and a great place to meet other travellers and hook up for safaris or travel on the coast. For sunbathing you should avoid April or May, as it can rain permanently during this time, although it didn't rain at all, when I visited Watamu and Mombasa in April 2007.